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Wednesday, October 31, 2012

India 2012 ~ Day 9

Happy Halloween!   There will be no costumes or trick or treating here… Halloween is very much a western holiday.  Here, it’s just plain old October 31.  No big deal.

This morning Shali and I are off in search of a traditional Indian outfit for me to wear to the wedding.  I’m so excited!  Whatever we find, I’m sure it will be simple since I’m definitely not made of money these days but hopefully we’ll find something that will work.  In the states I always struggle to find things that I like that fit well so we shall see.   It was raining pretty steadily but we headed to Commercial Street anyway.

First shop we went into was DCM.  It’s a favorite of Shali’s so we started there.  Shopping in India is a completely different experience.  The entire shop would have fit into a space smaller than my living room but there was merchandise from ceiling to floor and so many colors!  Shop owners/employees are “Johnny on the spot” if you will.  Willing to help you find anything and make you feel like you’re the only person there.  Not really a pressure to buy anything specific or to spend a lot of money, more a feeling of wanting to help you find the thing you will be happiest with.  I’d say I prefer shopping here to shopping in the US.  You never have to look very far to find someone to help you and they always know the answer to your question—if they don’t there’s someone else within arm’s length that does.  And generally speaking they’re all so nice!  

We walked in and Shali told them basically what we were looking for and they pulled out a beautiful peacock green top with bling all over the front.  In the US it would have been considered a dress, it was sleeveless and probably came down to my mid-calf.  I was kind of disappointed when I put it on and there wasn’t enough room for my boobs…  lol  stupid boobs anyway.  The next one I tried on was more to check for size I think, but it was just as gorgeous.  A deep royal purple with green trim and stitching all over it.  The size was perfect, but the bride will be in purple so we started looking for another color.  The next one I tried on was a burn orange color on the top half with kind of a progression to more of a brown at the bottom.  The front piece was completely embroidered with roses and fun designs.  The change in color from top to bottom was actually embroidery; I had thought it was dye work.  The neckline was a light tan color which matched the silk pant.  The orange roses were also embroidered into the pants.  So pretty and fit like a glove top to bottom.  And that’s all she wrote.  We found the perfect outfit at the first shop and we were in and out in less than 30 minutes.  I was AMAZED.  That never happens when I go shopping in the states.  Clearly I need to shop with Shali more often.  LOL 

From DCM we started down the street. Need accessories and shoes… nothing fancy, just earrings and some bangles.  We found earrings in the next shop we stopped in.  Not much of a shop, really.  I don’t even think you could call it a closet… You couldn’t fit two people inside and have both of them turn around at once without knocking things over.  It was all jewelry… earrings, necklaces, bangles and the like.  A few scarves and hair clips but nothing spectacular.  We found a pair of earrings that both Shali and I liked that matched the outfit well… I think we settled on 160Rs ($3.20) for those.  Shali started asking about bangles… we looked and tried a few… my hands are bigger than the average Indian (surprise surprise).  The shop keeper showed us a trick of putting a plastic bag over your hand to make the bangles slip over the biggest part of your hand easier.  We finally found the right size and were asking about colors that would match.  Once we got to the part of price, Shali and the shop keeper haggled a bit and we ended up moving on around the corner to keep looking.  Things went much smoother at the next shop.  I think I ended up paying 80Rs (about $1.60) for 20+ bangles. Not too shabby.  From there we crossed the street to a little shoe shop and found a cute pair of flats with sequins and beads all over.  Not generally my style, but very Indian—which is the whole point, right?  :o)  Shoes = 350Rs ($7).   

Awesome Indian outfit? Check.  Accessories? Check.  Happy wallet? Check.   Overall experience? WIN.

Shopping success achieved, we stopped at KFC to grab some chicken to take home for lunch and we were one our way back to the house.  I think we were gone all of an hour and half or so.  I was impressed.  Back in the states, that kind of a trip would likely have taken me most of the day and I would have easily ended up spending at least 5-6x’s what I did.  I was more than pleased.  :o)

After we ate, it was time to get ready and prep for the evening.  Inika and Suresh had planned a surprise birthday party for Shal (Shali’s sister-in-law) at their in White Field which is very near the Xchanging office.  So, rather than paying for two separate cars (one for Shali to the office in the early afternoon and one to pick me up later in the evening), I went with Shali in the afternoon and stayed in Kaila’s room at the hotel until it was time to leave for the party.  They left the office together and picked me up at about 8:30 and we headed off to the party. 

It had continued to rain all day so the roads were wet and pretty nasty.  It took us a bit to find the house or townhouse, as it were, but we did eventually find it. As we were pulling up to the gate, the car behind us was honking and attempted to go around.  I couldn’t help but laugh when I looked out the window and saw Shal’s face looking quite perplexed to see me looking back at her.  Surprise!!!  LOL  We were actually the first to arrive and we were worried about being late.  With the rain everyone was running behind so the surprise happened there in the driveway.  People came in bringing all kinds of food with them.  Shal is a chef… and many of her friends that came are chefs as well.   Food was amazing!  I had so much fun chatting and getting to know new people.  If I could remember all of their names, I’d mention them… but alas—I fail at that part.  Sorry kids!  Because Shali and Kaila were on “lunch” from work, we pretty much came, ate and ran.  They cut the cake just before we left.  It was made by a friend a Shals, he’s a chef at the Leela (big 5 star hotel in Bangalore).  It was such a pretty cake!  We got to sing happy birthday, give hugs and we were off. 

It was back to the hotel for me and to the office for Shali and Kaila.  I decided to go down to the bar in the hotel and see what was going on.  Being that it’s a western holiday, I figured there would be something going on down there and sitting in the room watching movies was slightly less than entertaining by that point.  I found good music and good people!  Got to hang out with a group of people from an office near Xchanging (Tesco?  I think?  Their specialty is conferencing; tele- web- video- all types).  They’re boss was in town from Ireland and they were having a great time.  I sat to the side for a few minutes just singing along to the music.  Eventually one of the guys came over and grabbed by hand and dragged me out to the dance floor…  We were jamming out to Thriller.  :o)  Thank you Michael Jackson for making my Halloween complete.

Success!  

I just really like this car...  :o)  Also, there was a brand new Mercedes parked right in front of it when  I pulled out the camera, but it pulled away just as I snapped the pic.  Rude.

Random shot of traffic

Awesome gourmet birthday cake!  All of the stuff on the top is fruit and meringue,  the purple band around the outside is white chocolate-- it was SO tasty!

Kaila and Shali workin it at the party

Preparing the cake for candles and singing...  they guy pulling off the gold ribbon made the cake.

Happy Birthday Shal!!  Guy on the left is her husband, Suresh (Shali's brother)

strike a match..

light a candle... 


Tuesday, October 30, 2012

India 2012 ~ Day 8


Divya comes today!  And I finally get to meet Don!  They are the ones getting married on Friday.  Well, technically they were married last year.  Don’s mother was very ill (cancer) and failing fast.  They were legally/civilly married in her hospital room shortly before she passed in Delhi.  Friday is the party for all of Divya’s family in Bangalore.

They came over to the house about 1 and we chatted and ate lunch.  There is so much going on in preparation for the wedding!  It’s going to be so much fun!  Just like in any other culture there is a lot to do and prepare for… caterers, decorations, flowers, the band, venue, etc, etc, etc.  Mary (Divya’s mother) has been away on a trip with the school she works for so she’s been planning a lot remotely and depending on family and friends here to help tie up loose ends and her nerves are about as thin as the skin of your teeth.  Shali is such a tease… she keeps calling Mary to wreak havoc…  “Mary, guess what’s happened?!” “Aye-oh, what now?” “Nothing. J”  Silly she is. 

Divya and Don came to the house about 1:30, I think.  There were hugs and chatting; last minute conversations about what still needs to be done and updates on changes to the band and a few other things.  Reminded me of several other pre-wedding conversations I’ve had in the last couple of years.  I swear most everyone I know is either getting married or having a baby… I’m just getting more awesome.  J

Got to know Don a little, which was nice.  Divya’s been in Delhi working for CNN IBN.  Don is a musician and works as a producer/jingle guy for a Delhi radio station.  They’re just a very cute couple and I love them both.  Plans for the day had been to spend the afternoon with them out and about starting with lunch.  We ended up having lunch at the house with Mom and Shali and then they came back to pick me up later in the evening for dinner.  We took an auto (autoriksha = little open air taxi).  I might love autos.  They’re fun.  One of those things that I’m sure people here don’t really think about being unique to this part of the world, but they’d be an absolute novelty in the US.  I think top speed is probably about 40 mph—maybe 50mph.  They’re fun little moments.

Dinner was awesome!  We went to Peter’s house (Peter is Divya’s uncle/Mary’s brother).  Peter is an excellent chef and I always look forward to anything that comes from his kitchen… and trust me, I definitely wasn’t disappointed. When I was here 5 years ago, he was the chef at the hotel I stayed at and now is catering freelance from what I understand.  We got a little lost on the way, but eventually found it.  Addresses here don’t necessarily make sense.  I’d never want to be the one driving unless I had an excellent GPS.  So many tiny side streets and alley ways; street signs are a blessing if you can find them and there are so many shops and people all over the place that even when the street signs are there you can’t generally see them as you’re driving along.  Side streets are very narrow, most wouldn’t think there’s actually enough room for two cars to fit through while traveling in opposite directions.  It’s true that sometimes you have to pull to the side and let the other driver have the right of way so you can each get to your destination. Bottom line is that it’s very important to have good directions or a driver who knows the city really well…  LOL  Divya was getting directions from Kavya on the phone as we rode along… I think we were looking for Shine Bakery (we were supposed to turn there) and then turn again at a building that looks like a gym (no gym I’ve ever seen, lol) and then down an alley way to the right and we walked half a block to get there.  I thought the whole thing was rather comical and was thinking about how we give direction in the states.  I have a fairly good sense of direction and it usually doesn’t take me long to get comfortable and find my way around in a new place.  Not here!  There are some roads we drive down that are somewhat familiar but, it would take me a while to figure things out if I lived here.

Anyway—we arrived at Peter’s house and I met Divya’s father (Noah? Noelle? For the life of me I can’t remember his name), hugged Kavya (Divya’s younger sister—I super love that girl), and met Kavya’s boyfriend whose name is also escaping me at the moment, and Irene (a Thai girl who lives with Peter’s family).  Sorry guys!  Don’t be offended… I love you both!  We had fun talking and laughing and joking.  It was a REALLY good time.  I wish I could bring all of them home with me so you could meet them and know how wonderful they are!

The evening’s menu was barbeque… and it was THE most tender yummy amazing beef and chicken you’ve ever eaten in your life.  I wish I had asked him for a recipe… but I’m almost certain it’s one of those things he just has in his head.  The meat was cooked all the way through—not pink at all, but not even the slightest bit dry or tough.  It was absolutely amazing, don’t think I’ve ever had anything like it before and I’m sure I’d be hard pressed to find anything comparable anywhere else.  We were on the rooftop terrace area of the house.  They lit a fire right there in the middle of the floor and we sat around and laughed and joked just like any bonfire/bbq party in the states.  Traditional consumption of food in India happens with the fingers of your right hand.  Bet you never thought of rice as a finger food, did ya?  LOL The meat was cooked in batches on a little grill that couldn’t have been bigger than 12x12 and then passed around on a platter.  We each took a piece, savored its yumminess and waited for the next round—and there were several.  I think we were half done before anyone thought about plates… lol there were also soft rolls and butter.  Meat and bread—I was in heaven.  And then… for dessert…  JAMUNS!!!  Remember how those are my very favoritest yummy dessert thing ever?  I might have eaten 6 or 7… and I didn’t even mind.  They were soooooo tasty. 

After dinner there were hugs all around and then back to Shali’s house.  Such a great evening!  Sincerely wish there was an opportunity to do it again before I leave…  :o(   Definitely looking forward to seeing all of them at the wedding on Friday.

Rooftop bonfire.  WIN.

Don, Divya, Divya's dad, Peter



The view...  house across the street...  lol

Irene, Kavya's boyfriend, Kavya




the bbq

bonfire burning down...

walking back out to the street to catch the taxi home

Monday, October 29, 2012

India 2012 ~ Day 7

Today was a quiet day… not much going on.  I stayed at the hotel with Kaila last night.  I think it was like 2:30 in the morning when we finally got back to White Field, too late for the driver to go another hour+ to take me home.
We got up and had breakfast in the restaurant downstairs.  The Zuri has an amazing buffet set up in a “T” shape along the back of the restaurant.  (I think I’ll be back there for a little while on Monday so I’ll try to remember to take some pictures)  To the right, you have traditional Indian breakfast dishes (they do spicy all day, every day so forget about anything with syrup or sugar) and on the left bacon, sausage, and other side items with a short order cook who will make you pancakes, waffles, French toast and eggs any way you want them.  In the middle there are all manner of breads, pastries and dry cereals.  Then, from the center out into the center of the restaurant a fruit and juice bar.  Everything looked so yummy!  And I’m not gonna lie—it tasted as good as it looked.
Anyway—we had our breakfast then back up to the room for a bit to wait for the driver.  On the way home today I shot some video of the traffic.  I don’t feel like the pictures and videos I took last time really do justice to the wonderfully awesome chaos of it all.  The videos were shot out the side window and had no sound and the pictures only really show what’s a few feet in front or to the side of where ever I was. 
They’re kind of shaky so if you get motion sick easily, might want to watch the shorter ones.  The roads are pretty rough and it seems like there are speed bumps at least every ½ mile or so… probably to discourage speeding… which is just ridiculous because, well… you’ll see…  LOL

OK-- FAIL.  The videos won't load so you're going to have to wait til I get back to the states for that..  Sorry dude.


India 2012 ~ Day 6


India 2012 ~ Day 6

I’m sorry—is it really morning?  This is either a terrible mistake or some kind of cruel joke…   Haha…  Last night was ridiculously fun but 6am is kickin’ me arse!!  Up shower and ready, then straight down to the car and we’re on our way!  We’re picking up Gerard, Sukanya and Mahitha.  OH!  Forgot to mention… a familiar face in the driver seat!  Kaila and Matt’s driver is the same man who drove me when I was here in 2007.  I showed him the picture we took when I was here before and he was so surprised, made him laugh…  lol  Such a sweet man.  Anyway—off we go!

First stop, just out from the hotel in White Field we picked up Mahitha, then to Gerard and Sukanya.  Quick stop at a grocery store for some breakfast/snacks to eat along the way as we didn’t have time for breakfast before we left the hotel.  It was a small little grocery store.  Just opened, all the lights inside were still off when we went inside.  We walked around looking for something to much on… I found a small package of orange cream cookies (like oreos but both the cookies and the cream were orange flavored, I think there were 15 cookies in the package), a bottle of mango juice (probably about 28-30 oz), a big bottle of water (about 1Lt) and a bag of Cool Ranch Doritos (I think it was a 10oz bag)… lol  Total cost: 430₨  (Current exchange rate is $1=50₨, so about $8.60).  At home in the US the most expensive item would have easily been the mango juice, probably $4-$5 or more for a bottle that size—any guesses on the price of the juice?  30₨… Not even lying…  $.60 for a huge bottle of mango juice—Remember how I love this place?  So true.  The cookies and the juice were awesome, but I was super disappointed when I opened the bag of chips and they smelled like rancid oil.  Fail.

So we’re in the car… Kaila and I are exhausted from last night and both trying to sleep.  My body is too long to get comfortable in the car and I’m trying in vain to find a spot where I can relax enough to sleep.  Not happening.  So smothered in lamesauce!  About 10, we pulled off for a pit stop.  I remember a KFC and a Cafe Coffee Day.  There may have been a few other buildings back behind but I wasn’t really all that coherent…  lol   I was soooo tired!   Anyway—we tried the KFC but they didn’t have anything ready (they had just opened) so we went across to the Coffee Day.  There was laughing and mocking… repeating jokes and funny moments from the night before…  It was a good time.  We go to leave and we’re clearing the area where we had been eating.  Kaila grabs the tray they had put the food on and starts to walk out the door…  with the tray still in her hands.  I started laughing to myself, walked out just behind her and said “Kaila—where are you going with the tray?”  She didn’t realize she was till holding it…  We both dissolved in giggles.  Good times.

Back in the car… still exhausted and still trying to find a comfy spot with no luck.  I don’t remember falling asleep, but I also don’t remember much of what happened between Maddur and Mysore… LOL  I think it was about 11:30 when we finally got into Mysore.  We went straight to the palace to walk around and see the sights on the grounds.  When I was here in 2007, it was end of June and it seemed crowded to me then… this time around with the Mysore Dasara festival (biggest and most extravagant festival in Mysore) nearing its end, the crowds were ridiculous!  Literally, people everywhere.  They were camped out all over the place in make-shift tents of blankets and tarps with cooking fires and all manner of stuff literally on the side of the road.  I’ve never seen streets so crowded!  Dasara is a huge deal.  The festival celebrates and commemorates the slaying of the demon Mahishasura by Goddess Durga.  It symbolizes the triumph of good over evil as depicted in Hindu mythology.  You should look it up… pretty cool stuff. 

We got our tickets, went inside and made our way to the palace entrance.  No shoes inside, so we left them at the counter along with the other 70,000 people who were wearing shoes. There was another 110,000 already not wearing shoes, cuz that’s just how they roll here…  LOL  They have a “rule” about no cameras/pictures inside the palace… but phones are totally acceptable.  It’s entirely possible that I used my cell phone to take a few pictures inside.  I only got a few shots (my favorites being of the Golden Howdah and the stained glass in the Kalyana Mantapa) before one of the guards yelled something in my direction (no idea if he was yelling specifically at me or not) and guilt took over.  Damn the bloody conscience of knowing right from wrong.  My phone stayed in my bag after that.  I felt better knowing that the howdah is actually used in the parades of Dasara so it’s not like there’s never been a picture taken of it. 

The first major room you come to is the Kalyana Mantapa, which looks like a big roundish ballroom with columns all around and a beautiful stained glass ceiling (see contraband).  The glass looks like huge peacocks surrounded by all manner of awesomeness.  A little research has enlightened me to some very cool facts about this particular room.  First—the purpose of the room itself is a marriage hall—which in and of itself is just cool that they have a room in the palace just for weddings. Second—the  glass and structure of the ceiling were wrought in Glasgow, Scotland!  How awesome is that?!

After the Kalyana Mantapa you go through a doorway into a set of hallways (I’m writing this from memory so I may get the order wrong, don’t be mad). In one hallway you see a “small” collection of caskets (ornate wooden boxes), trinkets and gifts presented from leaders, ambassadors and delegates from other countries.  One hall as portraits of the Indian royal family.  I found it very interesting that the last portrait in this hall was actually of the Tsarina Alexandra Fyodorovna Romanov.  No gonna lie, I was pretty proud of myself for recognizing her awesomeness way before we got to the sign with her name printed on it.   J    Have I mentioned recently that I’m in love with the Romanovs and I fully intend to see all there is to see in St Petersburg and the surrounding areas?  Everything from the Hermitage to ballets at the Mariinsky Theater and on to some of the most beautiful palaces in all of Europe.  Don’t worry, when it happens I’ll take you with me.  J

Eventually you come to the Gombe Thotti (Doll’s Pavillion). Way cool… all kinds of dolls and figurines and statues and ceremonial stuff from the 19th and early 20th centuries.  The very last thing before you go into the next part of the tour is the howdah.  It was so beautiful!  (pic below)  The howdah is the carriage frame thingie they strap to the elephant for the king to ride in for parades.  Sooooo cool! 

As you weave your way through the incredibly ornate hand carved doors and doorways, up and down gorgeous marble staircases and in and out of beautifully tiled and painted rooms and hallways you eventually come to Ambavilasa which is the reception room or “throne” room of sorts.  It’s the place where the head of the royal family (I think they are referred to as Krishnaraja in Mysore—I could be horribly wrong) would receive guests and take audience with visitors.  You only get to walk through the far end, away from the throne.  I so wish I could have taken pictures, it was gorgeous!

Once we were outside again, we walked around the grounds for a while. The gardens and the temples and all of the outer buildings in the fort are all so beautiful.  As we were walking around, a little girl stopped us.  She wanted to have her picture taken with us!  She was so precious!  That started an onslaught of random people stopping us and asking if they could have their picture taken with us… happened at least a dozen times… lol  I’ll have to get the pictures from Matt so I can post them.  For a fraction of a moment I had a little tiny taste of celebrity life… and I didn’t even mind!  J

Once we’d covered the front side of the palace grounds we headed back behind the main palace structure.  We were looking for an elephant to ride… cuz that’s what you do when you’re a tourist in a country where they let you do that.  It was one of the coolest and most memorable moments from my last trip.  We found the area where they were staging the elephant rides but they weren’t doing rides that day.  We were so sad… :o(  We did go over the where they were feeding the elephants and asked about taking a pictures.  We just thought they’d let us include the elephants in the back ground of the picture… we were pleasantly surprised when they brought the elephants up and told us to come into the pen area and stand next to them!  Was so cool!  They lifted their trunks and petted/rubbed our heads… totally startled me the first time… lol  wasn’t expecting it.  We got to have our moment with the elephants (which didn’t last nearly long enough) and then we were headed off the grounds.  As we were leaving, we got stopped again by a group of about 12 men who all wanted to have their picture taken with us…  LOL  still makes me laugh a little.  I guess when you don’t see many foreigners you want evidence to share with your friends so they know you really saw one!

Lunch was at a little place called The Road: A Unique Pub.  The entrance was a huge barrel.  Inside they had old cars set up with tables inside and there were posters of old cars all over the place.  We of course climbed into the cars to take pictures (also on Matt’s camera L) and be tourists. The area where we ended up sitting was set up with wide padded benches and pillows, kind of a mid-easterny feel to it.  Which was totally fine with me…  I ate and then laid down for a nap while everyone else finished… lol  We were the only ones in the restaurant.

We left the restaurant in search of shopping then to the Mysore Zoo to walk around for a bit.  So many beautiful animals...  I love the zoo.  After that it was back to the palace grounds for the lights!  They light up the whole place like Disneyland.  It’s pretty cool.  By this time, my phone had died so I couldn’t take anymore pictures, but Matt and Kaila took lots so as soon as I have a chance to meet up with them again and get copies, I’ll post them.  We stayed at the palace for a short while to oooo and aaahhh at the lights and then moved on to Brindavan Gardens for the Musical Fountain.  Last time I was here we saw the main gardens but the water was so high, we weren’t able to get to the side of the grounds where the fountains were.  It was pretty cool.  They choreograph the lights and the movement of the water in the fountains to music.  Kind of like the fountains at the Bellagio but way cooler—cuz it’s in India.  After the show at the fountains, we went up to the Royal Orchid hotel for dinner.  YUM!  It was a “5 star” moment… waiters with towels on their arms who bring the food to the table and then serve it to your plate.

After dinner we were headed home… I was exhausted!  So tired!  Didn’t sleep much on the way home and was so glad to see my bed.   What a day!